Success Starts with Soil

Success in gardening starts with the soil. Prepping makes perfect and leads to healthier plants, trees, and shrubs – and tastier fruits and vegetables.

Plants needs light, air, water and nutrients and success in providing these things is dependent on planting location, plant choice, soil structure, chemistry and biology.

Planting Location

When considering the location of your plants you should think about:

Sun
The number of hours of direct sun is critical. Most vegetable varieties require six or more hours of full sun, while leafy greens, legumes and cabbage varieties can handle part sun (4-6 hours).

Annuals and perennials have a wide variety of options for sun and shade, ask us for help or look for helpful articles in books or on Google!

Drainage

Planting under eaves tend to be a dry shade and poor drainage can be found in very heavy clay soil, low spots and near older septic fields. Sandy locations do not retain moisture well and Canadian Shield locations have shallow soil and rock substrate that may limit drainage. Adding a compost can help with soil structure.

Alkalinity

Winnipeg, much of Southern Manitoba and the Interlake have neutral to alkaline soils, which is great for most vegetables, white and pink hydrangeas and Saskatoons. Adding a soil amendment like a compost can assist in balancing soil alkalinity.

Plant Choice

Choosing native plants help support the ecosystem and have a greater chance of success without needing much intervention and you can feel good about supporting the natural habitats of birds, insects, animals and pollinators.

Choose perennials, trees and shrubs that are appropriate for the zone you are growing in – which are usually marked on the tag when you purchase it. Typically, we do not carry products that are not hardy for our zone. Winnipeg and south to the border range from Zone 3a to Zone 3b. The Pas would be Zone 2, Thompson and Flin Flon Zone 1, so consider that before making your purchases.

Choose for soil type, alkalinity and drainage of your area and property.

Soil Structure, Chemistry and Biology

Soil is defined by how much clay, silt and/or sand is present and these are all critical factors for plant and tree success.

Clays are very heavy and prone to compaction, and in Manitoba they are usually on the alkaline side of the pH scale. When very compacted and dry the soil will be susceptible to large, deep cracks.

Silt or loam is perfect for root growth, water retention and drainage as well as nutrient uptake. Sandy soils can be too porous and thus can dry out too quickly in the summer months and have low available nutrition since what is there will often get leached away.

Plants can be aided in their growth by chemical fertilizers (fast acting or slow release) or soil amendments. The most sustainable option for soils is to use organic and mineral amendments, feeding your plants as well as supporting the soil ecosystem of microbial populations for maximum growth and long-term soil structure.

A common saying amongst gardeners is feed the soil, not the plant! And how true. Taking the time to prepare the soil will result in stronger, well fed and more disease resistant plants. And tastier!

Improving your Soil

There are many different organic and mineral based amendments that you can choose from. Most of these are available at your local greenhouse, hardware store, even from your own home!

Organic Amendments

• Peat moss

• Coir fiber

• Compost

• Composted manure (sheep, steer, mushroom, trot)

• Fish & seaweed (kelp) products

• Worm Castings

• Composted coffee grounds

• Blood and Bone Meal

• Alfalfa Meal

• Crushed Egg Shell

Mineral Amendments

• Gypsum (also known as clay buster)

• Lime

• Rock Phosphate

• Potash

• Epsom Salts

Soil Structure

Now, let us talk about the different components of soil and different amendments that you can add to improve the structure.

The structure of the soil is a description of how the particles of a soil fit together and its porosity. It’s a big determiner of drainage, looseness or heaviness for root penetration and nutrient uptake, and its water retention capability. Any organic amendments, such as peat moss, compost, composted manure, worm castings, seaweed and fish products, coir fibre, help to improve structure. They loosen up clay soils and allow for drainage, root penetration and nutrient uptake. Do not add sand to a very heavy clay soil as you are likely going to make cement. Organic amendments also help sandy soils by increasing water retention and improving nutrient availability.

The chemistry of the soil includes macronutrients, micronutrients and even plant hormones. It also describes the environment where chemical interactions take place and how nutrients are taken up by the plant. The three main macronutrients are N-P-K and you will see three numbers always listed on fertilizers and often on soil amendments. An easy way to recall their use is by remembering “Up, Down, All around”

N ↑ - Nitrogen for green up. Essential for leaf and green production. Organic amendments help with N availability and uptake and some add moderate amounts to soil for slow release. Too much Nitrogen can limit fruit and flower production because all the energy wants to go into green leaf growth.

P  ↓ -Phosphorus for root down. Roots for fruit and flowers. Any organic amendments help to increase availability, and some add moderate amounts for slow release. Rock phosphate is a mineral additive to raise levels but should only be used if a soil analysis shows it to be lacking.

K ↕ -Potassium is for all around plant strength, function and disease resistance. Also aids in fruit and flower production.

Other macronutrients include

Calcium – Usually sufficient in the soil but sometimes needed for tomatoes to prevent bottom end rot when excessive heat, rain or a soil deficiency limits adequate uptake. Organic amendments are bone meal and eggshells and a mineral source could be Gypsum (clay buster).

Magnesium – Usually sufficient in the soil but sometimes is added soil for tomatoes, peppers and roses for fruit and flower production. Epsom salts (fast acting) and bone meal (slow release, apply in fall or early spring) are two sources.

Sulphur - Usually sufficient in the soil but is sometimes added to acidify soils or for growing onion and garlic. Composted manure is a good natural source and chemical fertilizer would be another source.

Success in gardening begins when you prepare the soil to ensure your plants and trees have the chance to flourish so that you can enjoy the fruits of your labour all year round.